![]() So after the rafters were nailed in, I measured out from the sheathing the distance-8 3/4 inches-I’d determined for the overhang, and I marked the first and last rafters. #Barge rafter install#But I prefer to cut and install the rafters with just the ridge cut and birdsmouths, leaving the tails long to be cut in place. The rafter tails can be shaped on the ground using the rafter jig to lay out the pattern rafter quickly and accurately. To use the jig, I simply hook the 1x2 to the top edge of the rafter stock and I instantly have both plumb and level edges to scribe to. I also labeled the jig with the pitch and the angle I save all my jigs and stow them for the next time I need to cut a roof with the same pitch. After cutting the angle, I attached strips of 1x2 along the hypotenuse on both sides. For this 6-in-12-pitch roof, I made one leg 12 inches and the other 24 inches. From that corner, I cut a right triangle at the roof pitch, doubling the rise and run dimensions so the jig could be used for cutting full-size rafters. To help with the drawing and with laying out rafters, I used a simple rafter jig that I built on site from a piece of plywood with a factory corner. Information such as number of degrees and length of hypotenuse in a base one triangle are also included for reference. The triangle has the plumb line on one leg and the level line on the other, so it is also handy for drawing cutlines. This established where I would need to make the vertical cut for the rafter tail, which turned out to be 8 3/4 inches from the sheathed wall.Ī simple rafter jig helps with laying out the eaves details. From this reference, I marked another plumb line 3/4 inch in for the thickness of the fascia, and 1 1/2 inches in from there for a 2-by subfascia. Aligning the edge of my jig on the mark, I drew a plumb line that represented the outside face of the fascia. After drawing the wall framing, the sheathing, and the 1-inch-thick frieze, I squared a level line from the outside face of the frieze and marked 10 inches out from there. For this project, that was 10 inches from the outside of the frieze board to the outside of the finished fascia. The first thing I determine on the drawing is the overall width of the eaves. To determine exactly what the rafter tail will look like, I always make a full-size drawing on a scrap of plywood of all the eaves elements, including framing and finish materials (see illustration, above). The main component of any eaves detail is the rafter tail-the part of the rafter that extends beyond the exterior wall. I recently built a small outbuilding with a 6-in-12-pitch roof that offers a perfect example for showing the process I use to build eaves and rakes. My system is straightforward and provides strong, positive attachment of the overhanging elements to the building, as well as solid nailing for the finish materials. There are many ways to frame eaves and rakes. And aside from the practical considerations, well-proportioned overhanging eaves and rakes can also be an attractive design element. Shedding rainwater away from siding and trim-especially from door and window sills-can greatly reduce rot, mildew, and a host of other problems that can be caused by water streaming down the face of the building. The rafter jig seen in the next photo helps with the layout.Įaves and rakes that overhang a building’s sidewalls are critical to the life of a building. This drawing provides dimensions and distances for all of the parts. To help measure and visualize the eaves components, a full-size drawing is done. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |